Kintyre, Dumfries and Galloway 2015

Hi all

Our latest holiday was back up north in Scotland, although a little further south than before, and on the west coast.

My journal is below reading order as usual and the link to my photo album is below:

https://picasaweb.google.com/105628058638963280461/KintyreDumfriesAndGalloway2015

Enjoy!

Siobhan x

Friday 15th - Saturday 16th May

After a half day at work on Friday, we left home at lunchtime and headed on up north. Traffic was heavy around Manchester and Liverpool and it took us an extra couple of hours to get to The Fox and Pheasant in Armathwaite where we stopped for the night. We had booked a table for 7 and we arrived just at the same time so we postponed it for a short while as we settled in.  Dinner was Seabass and salad for me and Mathew had battered haddock and chips. With full bellies we went upstairs, had showers and had a very good nights sleep in a huge bed!

After breakfast we left around 9am and headed on up further north. Traffic was light from here onwards, but we were in no rush. We stopped off at Tesco to get some food and lunch before heading on to Dumbarton where we went to the Castle.  Here we discovered just how windy it was today!!  There were lots of steps here, and its basically on a rock but in a good position - you can see why a Castle was built here!  The rain just about held off, in fact it was quite nice in the sunshine.  We went back to the car and had our lunch there - we had found some salad pots which were quite handy.  We pushed on towards Inverary and further round to Kintyre.  Past Lochgilphead we headed on down the peninsula until we reached pur cottage in Carradale. We were welcomed in and showed the basics before being left to unpack.  The place was small and cute, the bedroom was actually like a snug in the corner, the idea was that it was reminiscent of traditional box-beds.  We settled down, unpacked and put the kettle on!

Sunday 17th May

Today we knew that the weather wasn't going to be too great.  We donned our waterproofs and headed on out for a local walk on Carradale Bay.  The rain was indeed very on and off, and we spent the walk sheltering under various types of trees as it only seemed to rain for about 5 minutes or so before clearing up for another half hour. It was very wet underfoot - unsurprising as it had rained recently anyway.  The view was nice when we could see Arran, although it was looking very mysterious under all the dramatic clouds.

Eventually we reached the beach and walked along it, I picked up some sea glass which was a decent size so I might be able to turn that into a pendant to wear.  We cut through the gorse - which was in full flower and there was LOTS of it pretty much everywhere - to go back inland towards our cottage to finish our walk.  When we did, we dried off a little and had some lunch before heading out again in the car to Skipness.  We visited the Castle (ruined) here and the nearby Chapel of St. Brendan which was also a ruin, however we did notice some recent gravestones in its grounds.

Heading on back to the car, we decided to have a wander down a path leading into the woodland next to it - we noticed bluebells and aliums so we thought we would have a look.  It was a short walk but it turns out that there was a river babbling along, and there were so many wild aliums in flower - we had never seen quite this many in flower before and the smell was rather potent!  Again, the rain came and we headed on back after reaching the end of the trail which was actually part of the river itself, so. we could have continued if we had wanted to cross it.  Back in the cottage, we dried off for a second time and settled down as the rain eventually settled in.  Home made spaghetti bolognaise for dinner warmed us from the inside out!

Monday 18th May

Today the weather wasn't too bad for us - still wet but not as much as yesterday! We headed on out to Inveraray as we thought it would be a good idea to leave the land to drain of water today.  We started at the Castle which looks very fairy-tale like with its little towers, and the stone outside was green.  Inside it was a stately home, not that many rooms to see but it was actually quite nice and not as "samey" as some tend to be.  We wandered into the garden which was flatter then I was expecting it to be and really quite simple and straightforward, not as grand as I thought it was going to be, but the small 'woodland' area was rather nice, PLUS we got to see a red squirrel which was quite unexpected given that this was not an actual forest.  Still, it could have made its way there from a nearby forest.  It was very cute!

The rain started to fall so we headed on into the cafe where Mathew had a Panini and I had Scotch Broth.  We shared a chocolate tiffin which turned out to be more chocolatey than expected - very nice though!  Leaving the Castle, we thought we would follow the blue signs to 'Dun Na Cuaiche' .  We didn't know what it was but with full bellies we thought we'd take a stroll.  We went on through some really nice woodlands and we seemed to be getting higher and higher, and view getting bigger and bigger.....it then occurred to us that we might be heading up to a hill on top of which there was a small tower which we had seen from the Castle.  I started to think we were going there but as we reached the top Mathew started having doubts.....but sure enough there it was, and we had sort of accidentally climbed a small mountain (well, it probably would be if Wainwright had climbed it).  The weather turned out to be pretty nice by this point, lthough the wind was rather cold.  The tower was simple inside with a chilly wind coming right through, but outside in the sun it was rather nice.  The view was pretty good, we could see Loch Fyne and Inveraray below as well as the next batch of rain heading our way.  After taking some photos we headed back down.

We headed into Inveraray itself and went into the Jail.  At this point I noticed my lower left back was hurting whilst walking and I could only put it to the fact that we'd walked up Dun Na Cuaiche without my walking sticks which had evidently put pressure on some muscles that weren't used to it.  I found the stairs in the jail difficult but managed to get all the way around in the end.  I had been there before a long time ago, and I don't think a great deal had changed - there was the courtroom filled with mannequins and recorded cases being heard, and there was the 'old prison' and the 'new prison' in which there were various cells which were used to describe some of the cases, punishments and the people who had become inmates and those who also worked there.  It was oddly intresting in a macabre sort of way!

Through the kitchen and the shop, we came out and had a quick look around Inveraray.  I popped in the chemist for some ibuprofen for my shoulder, although it would probably help my back too.  We also popped into a sweet shop where Mathew bought some fudge and the Information Centre where we bought some Ice Cream.  Yes, Ice Cream on a showery somewhat chilly day.....it's a British thing!  And very nice it was too!

We then made our way back to the cottage where I did some Yoga to stretch out my back although I have no idea if it helped or hindered it.  After a stir fry for dinner I took some ibuprofen and settled down for the evening, hoping that it would be okay tomorrrow.

Tuesday 19th May

Better weather today with lighter showers!  We headed on out to Lochgilphead and then on to Loch Collie Bharr.  This is where a Beaver Trial took place and there is a trail which takes you all around the Loch which you can take to try and spot beavers.  It was a really nice walk - I had my sticks with me but it wasn't strenuous.  We decided to do this today because of that and because of how my lower back was feeling.  I think it was a case of the more I walked the better it felt, which was a good sign!  The trail took us all the way around and close to the side of the Loch with the exception of the second third of the walk which was quite a way away from the side of the Loch, although we did pass an abandoned village on that side.  Unfortuately we didn't spot any beavers, however we saw their dams and plenty of freshly gnawed wood as evidence!  Still a very nice walk though.

Afterward, we walked around the nearby smaller Loch Barnluasgan which I think most local people went to to walk their dogs.  This trail was even easier and on the flat, with information posts on the way.  Beavers also lived here and again, we saw plenty of fresh evidence but no actual beavers.  Back to the car, we headed off to Castle Sween.

Castle Sween is in one of the remotest places on the Kintyre peninsula and it kind of felt like it too!  The castle itself is open access and a standing ruin.  The only annoying thing was the caravan park right next to it which kind of broke the picture you usually get when you visit the ruins of a castle in the middle of nowhere.  Still, there wasn't a great deal of the castle left, but given its location we could see why it had been built there, right next too Loch Sween which is a sea Loch, so a good point at which to see who's coming and going.

Onward we went back to Lochgilphead to stop off for some shopping before heading back to the cottage.  My back turned out to be feeling much better at this point and I continued stretching it out with some Yoga before dinner.

Wednesday 20th May

Today we knew the weather was going to be nice so we made the most of it.  We went to the Mull of Kintyre, the end of which is rather bleak and looks like a hillier version of the north York moors.....heather everywhere!  We went down the road and saw the lighthouse which looked SO far down... we thought it might not be a good idea to go all the way as we didn't like the prospect of coming all the way back up!  So, we made pur way across the heather to a memorial which was dedicatd to those who lost their lives in a 1994 helicopter crash.  Walking a little further on from the memorial we got a view of the coastline.  Also we could see Northern Ireland from here!

On our way back we stopped off at Keil Point.  After some lunch, we investigated the caves there which I have to say were SO smelly! (Poop everywhere!) On the other side we took a look at St Columba's footsteps (one ancient and the other carved in the 1800s), and the nearby St.Columba's Well.  We walked along the beach for a bit and saw some seals sunning themselves on the rocks, before heading back to the sandier part of the beach.  We saw some Gannets diving earlier but they had moved on by the time we had returned.  Shame, as I was hoping to try and get a photo of them diving!

Next we went to Machrhihanish for a walk which sold itself too well, as it was more like a gentle stroll.  The view wasn't as 'stunning' as it had implied, as the walk took us through part of the village and past a Marine Environment Research Station which wasn't what I would have called pretty.  However, the Gauldrons at the end were impressive and we would have rather had a walk along the ridge however there isn't such a walk that we know of.

Heading back to the cottage we stopped off at Saddell Abbey which comprised of almost overgrown ruins and a number of family plots.  There was a hut with information about the Abbey and it also contained some carved stones - some with effigies.  The Abbey itself is an old ruin but has the air of history about it,the kind you can imagine being haunted - which makes sense because there is a story of a local tailor being chased by a huge black spectral hand.  But what I kept thinking was: why a hand? I wondered if mushrooms or alcohol was involved, or perhaps a bat - you never know how much these stories are exaggerated....!

Thursday 21st May

Today the weather forecast wasn't so good for this afternoon so we started off going to Crarae Gardens which is also known as "The Himalayan Glen".  There were walks around the garden in 5 colours representing Tibetan prayer flags.  Not only this, but there was a theme of plants and trees which had been brought here from places in the Far East such as Tibet, China, India, Singapore, and even as far as Australia and New Zealand.  There were a few wicker animals such as a deer, an otter, a koala and a panda in their 'native habitat' which was quite fun.  It was a rather enjoyable garden to visit!  As we left, the rain came and we had lunch in the car.

Onward we went to Lochgilphead to have a look around the town.  There really isn't much here for tourists, just a couple of gift shops but otherwise a working town with shops selling what people really need, and many of them family busniesses.  We made our way to Tarbert which was a little more 'touristy' I guess you could say but was still very much a working town, but had more in the way of gift shops, and also the Castle which is basically a ruin but definitely worth having a look at.  We went to the Castle first and made our way along the shops until we reached the co-op where we bought a few necessary bits and pieces before getting back into the car.  It was 3pm and Mathew really wanted some chips because he could smell them, however when he went to get some the shop had closed, probably reopening later on around 5ish.  So no fish and chip shop chips on the harbour :(

We continued our journey down the west side of the Kintyre Peninsula just to have a look at the landscape as we had not been there and hadn't identified anything of interest to us there.  It was very plain, although on a nicer day would have had a better view of the Isle of Ghiga across the sea, otherwise there pretty much isn't anything going on this side.  Back around through Campbelltown (another working town although this one has nothing for tourists at all), we continued around back to Carradale.  It turns out that the weather forecast was wrong today - we only had drizzle between Crarae Gardens and Tarbert, after that it was just overcast.  No heavy rain as predicted....!

Friday 22nd May

Today we were exploring neolithic Scotland!  The morning was really very wet and drizzly but the sun came out in the afternoon.  We arrived at Kilmartin House Museum which was quite small but very informative - well worth a visit.  We learned that there was a great deal of neolithic archaeology and history in this area, all pretty concentrated together.

We started with Ri Cruin Cairn which has a central burial or 'cist' and axe mould marks on one of the head stones.  Across the way we had a look at Temple Wood where there are two stone circles - one had what looked like a henge standing stone formation in it and contained a burial in the centre - one of the standing stones had some cup and ring marks on it, barely visible though as it it open to the elements.  The other was a mound of stones as a cist burial with one central stone.  Not far away was Nether Largie South which is a neolithic chamber tomb, and Nether Largie Standing Stones.  Here there are 5 tall standing stones - three have cup and ring marks on them, most likely dating to before the stones were erected as they currently stand.

Back at the Museum, we went into the cafe and had a delicious cheese, bacon and tomato tart with salad, followed by Orange and Elderflower Cheesecake!  We then went for a stroll outside and discovered an interesting sculpture which had a plaque stating it was a type of solar and lunar calendar, although it was difficult to try and interpret exactly what it was supposed to have been telling us, but it was rather nice!  We also had a look in the nearby churchyard to have a look at some historic carved stones before heading on to Carnasserie Castle which was a fairly large ruin with steps right to the top of the towers.

Next we visited Dunchraigaig Cairn which originally contained three stone graves or cist burials, and there was a cup and ring marked stone nearby.  We then took a look at Ballymeanoch Standing Stones which were also next to a curbed cairn and a henge which was more like an earthwork.  Finally we went up Dunadd Fort which is an Iron Age Hill Fort which seemed to have been reused as the centre of royal power.  On the top there is a stone in which there is a carved footprint (apparently two but we could only see one), a carving of a boar, and some incised ogham script. There was a basin nearby as well, arved into another piece of rock, potentially used for 'anointing' or possible washing hands and/or feet.  With the exception of the one footprint, everything else was quite worn and not easy to see, although what we were looking at was a replica of the stone itself - which is actually about 10cm below the concrete reconstruction.  This Fort also had a pretty good view of the large raised peat bog known as Mòine Mhór and the nearby meandering River Add.

Before we finished for the day we went to have a look at the cup and ring marked stones at Kilmichael Glassary, wich were fun to explore.  Some were more easy to see and photograph than others, but I can tell you they were definitely there!

Saturday 23rd May

En route to our second accommodation in Dumfries and Galloway, we stopped off at Auchindrain Township Museum which came across to me like it hadn't actually been open that long.  It was a working farm with sheep and chickens, but there were a number of buildings, basically disused or abandoned farm buildings which had been sparsely (hence probably hasn't been open that long) done up so visitors could see how things were back in the day.  The most interesting thing about this was the last building which we went into - it contained a number of pieces of agruciltural equipment, and there was a full explanation not only of what the items were used for, but how they were used and an explanation of processes such as sewing and cultivating potatoes and which plows were used for which crops.  I don't think I have ever been to any museum where there have been such in depth descriptions, so I found it quite interesting.

 Heading on, we had lunch on the edge of Loch Lomond before continuing on to Newton Stewart where we did a food shop and headed finally on to Isle of Whithorn where we settled into our new accommodation for the week.  It was a little sparse and had the 'holiday home' smell which didn't bother me as much as the lack of character.  I don't think it has ben a holiday let for that long, probably.  Nevertheless it was a safe, dry and warm place to stay.  We were truly off grid now - no wifi and barely any mobile reception here...

We had a short walk outside to see the coast and the harbour as it was just around the corner.  We spotted a pub called The Steampacket Inn which we thought we could potentially have dinner in one evening before we leave, and also a shop which sold fresh fish - we thought it might be worth having a little look in there at some point to get something really fresh for dinner one evening.  We went on to St Ninians Chapel which was a ruin before heading back to the cottage.  Oh yes, and we watched the Eurovision Song Contest....!

Sunday 24th May

We discovered at 4:50am that we could hear the sparrows outside with the window closed.  I had an idea on how to make some earplugs later for tonight and hopefully they'll work and I'll get a decent nights sleep tonight.  Still, almost 5 hours wasn't too bad, I've coped with much less than that before!

We decided to take it relatively easy today.  We did a walk not far away from where we were staying which was right on the coast and through quite a large amount of forest.  In the forest, aliums were in flower along woth bluebells and pink campions so it was rather colourful!  Before approaching Cruggelton Castle we had to cross a field of cows which, as we safely crossed to the other side, we realised that they were a little lively, having RAN (I would say charged but this was a cow not a bull) to where the cyclist we had just passed was going through the gate on the other side.  We didn't like the idea of going through that field again if the cows were going to be super interested in us...! We had a look around the Castle which was basically the remains of an arch on the site of an Iron Age Hill Fort, and by the time we had finished, many cows were grazing at the end of the field over the route which we would have taken back.  So, we went on up the existing field around the cows and managed to get to the farm track, around the cows and into the field on the other side.  It wasn't east climbing over a wire fence but it was either that or potentially get trampled and beaten by cows....!

On the way back we stopped off for our lunch which we had packed, and continued on back to the car.  We then made our way to Whithorn where we popped into the Museum before taking a look around the Priory ruins, and the guy there actually gave us a personalised 'tour' of the museum, which contained a large collection of Christian gravestones, early and late.  He told us he was the handyman for the trust but I think he had soaked a lot of information in and enjoyed learning about local archaeology and history.  This was a Sunday so we assumed he was volunteering for this today.  We thought maybe he'd given us the tour because it was a quiet day but he continued to do it for everyone else so it's probably his thing!  I wonder how many other people who work there go to the same lengths as him?

After the Priory, we went to 'The Whithorn Story' which was a little museum and cafe.  We watched a short video and saw two galleries - one of the archaeology and history of the area and the other was St.Ninians Gallery which was the same thing but just for everything St.Ninian related.  I bought some gifts from the shop before we headed back to the cottage, popping off to a small giftshop on the way which sold locally made set honey for Mathew to have for his breakfast!

Monday 25th May

Today we set out for the Mull of Galloway.  The forecast was for cloudy skies however, it actually turned out to be a really nice sunny day!  Here there was an RSPB nature reserve as well, so we stopped off in that building first and there was a scope set up focussed on Scare Rock (I think!) on which there was a colony of 5000 Gannets....! And there was a stuffed toy Gannet which was used to show the wing span.  It is huge - it can reach up to 6 feet!

Onward we went on a circular route around the Mull and we visited the lighthouse where there was an exhibition of the history of the lighthouse and we were able to go into and up to the top - something which I had never done before so I rather enjoyed it!  Back down, we were given a certificate for having climber the 115 steps to the top of the lighthouse, and we continued on our route right up to the fog horn before going back to the car park.  Just beyond the car park there was a cafe and gift shop so we decided to stop off there and have lunch and I had a look in the shop for postcards.

Now, there seems to either be a shortage of decent postcards in this region or they've stopped doing them.  I had been searching for postcards since Friday and I haven't found anything decent.  And by decent I mean for example, I didn't want to send a postcard of the Mull of Galloway's cafe interior.  Yes, that really was the best option here.

So we moved on to Stanraer to see if we could find any postcards.  We found the Tourist information office which was.....closed.  So onward to Castle Kennedy Gardens which was HUGE and we spent a good couple of hours walking around - plenty of trees so more like an arboretum really, but it was really very nice.  And also the Castle ruins which we couldn't explore, but an interesting focal point for the gardens.  Back in the shop, again on my search for postcards there were about 6 although they were very small and looked like they'd been taken from their 1980s stock which they still had at the back of the store room.  Nothing I would choose, terrible photos of the garden, I have to say I would rather have been able to print my own photos off.  We do actually have a machine which can do that at home however it's not something you really think you'll need to take on holiday because postcards are going extinct...!

Back in the car we headed back for the cottage thinking that perhaps on this holiday we won't be sending any postcards this time.....

Tuesday 26th May

Today we set off early for a walk in Galloway Forest Park called the Loch Trool Trail.  Whilst we were on our way there it rained which we really hoped it wouldn't do whilst we were there and fortunately it didn't.  It was a nice walk, 5.5 - 6 miles (depending on whether you believe the signposts or the leaflet) and there were only 2 things I didn't like about it - big gravel (hard on my feet) and part of the walk was on a road because there is a house on the loch (understandable but not very interesting).  It was a shame that the last part of the walk took us through forest which had recently been cleared.  We had lunch at 'Bruces Stone' not far from the end of the walk, it was a large stone with an inscription and overlooked the loch.  Also a good place to have our lunch!

 Back in the car we headed off to the Glentrool visitors centre in the park which was 90% cafe 10% shop.  It was fine, but I found it a little odd that although the cafe was quite busy, nobody was talking to each other and I felt like everyone watched me when I went in (I have no idea if they did though).  I found two postcards which I liked, unfortunately they only had one available to buy so I just bought the same for everyone.

Onward to Wigtown which is known as Scotlands Bookshop Town.  Yes there were a few second hand bookshops although there didn't seem to be as many as I thought there were - 14 I think?  I'm sure we must have gone into 7.  Anyway, we had a bit of fun exploring those, I didn't buy anything except  some postcards which I would have expected to have been available at the Mull of Galloway yesterday but weren't, whilst Mathew bought 2 books.

I'm glad I resisted - I have a number of books I'm trying to get through before spending my £40 Amazon voucher which I got for Christmas on more books, including digital ones!  (Apologies to book lovers everywhere who hate digital books but I don't have much room for actual books and some things I want to read I don't mind reading digitally!). Speaking of digital books, in one bookshop (apparently the biggest one in the town) there was a Kindle which had been hung on the wall.  The plaque underneath it said that it had been shot in 2012.  This shop in particular was anti- Kindle, as they also sold mugs which stated 'Death to the Kindle!'.....!

Wednesday 27th May

Today we knew the rain would come at some point so we made the most of the dry morning.  We set off for Kirkcudbright (pronnounced koo-koo-bree) first thing which is apparently a town of arts and crafts.  I say apparently because there were actually more cafes and general shops than arts and crafts.  Yes there were 3 galleries or so which I get, but no crafts whatsoever.  We were both very disappointed what with the place having such a wonderful reputation.  We visited MacLellan's Castle (built by Sir Thomas MacLellan in the 1570s and 80s), as we were there, before moving back towards Isle of Whithorn with the intention of stopping off at various places. By this time we thought the rain had come early, but it turned out to be a light shower.  We also discovered that the Scots also complain about the weather just as much as the English - "Honestly, what is this?!" said a dog walker as she passed us, gesturing toward the sky, "This is supposed to be Summer!!".  Quite!


We stopped of at Cardoness Castle, residence for the McCulloch family in the late 1400s, which was oddly sinister on the outside yet rather spacious and rather nice inside.  This is also when the rain seemed to stop.....on we continued to Cairnholy I and II neolithic chambered cairns, the first one more elaborate than the other with a more grand facade of built up stones.  After having lunch there, we then stopped off at Carsluith Castle which was very much like Cardoness, only more friendly on the outside and generally a little smaller with a kinder (wider) spiral staircase!

The clouds started bubbling up some, so we thought we would make our way back to Isle of Whithorn, stopping off for a cream tea on the way.  Of we went, the rain starting up again and this time deciding to settle in.  We stopped off at The Story of Whithorn cafe for a very nice cream tea and I bought a couple more souvenirs as I was feeling a little frustated at the lack of local crafts available in the area and this place was my backup!  The rain was heavier when we left, but we hadn't got far to go.  We stopped off at the cafe/shop around the corner from where we were staying - Mathew went to the pub to book a table for Friday night, and I went intto the shop to buy some stained glass window hangers (local crafts!).  By the time we got back to the car it was tipping it down, so we dried off at the cottage, and had tea later as we'd already had some with our scones earlier..!  We sat in the warmth and dry listening to the rain hammering down outside.